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We were really looking forward to eating at Robert Gadsby’s new restaurant Bedford, in the Houston’s Heights area. Along with Montrose and the hip part of Washington Avenue, Houston’s Heights is one of the top areas for new innovative cuisine.

First Visit

We were longtime fans of Chef Gadsby’s cooking from his time at NOE. The initial entry way into the Bedford is west coast chic. The restaurant was packed so our anticipation grew even more. On our first visit, we opted for the regular seating over the Chef’s table, which looks like a sushi bar with a small kitchen in front.

Please, everyone keep in mind: Yes, there is some confusion going on among the servers. This restaurant is new and the place was packed, but the service was friendly. We already have a our favourite server – she knew the items on the menu (how they were made, what the key ingredients were), had recommendations with explanations, and took great care of us.

The restaurant’s look is acceptable, but it will definitely remind you of a hallway in a hotel-a little bare and nothing that really establishes an ambiance. The addition of a few pictures, more art with spot lighting would help to cure this. The waitstaff’s uniforms were untucked shirts reminiscent of barongs or janitorial uniforms. We were informed by our server that the uniforms would be changing. Thanks – this is a good idea.

Mimosa Salad

The food was what we expected – great. The quail was perfectly seasoned and tender. The duck pasta was so delicious – balanced flavours of duck, without the greasy taste that turns some non-duck eaters off. The top dish had to be the papaya chicken salad. If you’ve eaten Robert’s mimosa salad at NOE, you will be familiar. This one dish should be given to everyone. It is absolutely delicious!

They ran out of lamb, that night -so I missed out. Looking into the kitchen, I saw lamb dishes coming up every 5 minutes or so. The tellicherry crusted tuna was also good. I recommend avoiding the shorts ribs. They are just “ok” and you can get short rib anywhere in Houston. We ordered 2 different desserts. I especially liked the Indian cheese donuts, but the bread pudding was so-so. Cappuccinos tasted hand made and not from a coffee machine.

Duck Ravioli Salad

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Second Visit

On our second visit, we decided go for the deep tracks. We went with the Chef’s table or what Bedford calls “Table One”. I thought sitting in the bar chairs would be hard for 2.5 hours. To my surprise, they were fine – even after 4 hours.

Our meal began with an amuse-bouche of a sweet cornbread topped with a garden vegetable butter. It was a good start. I think if you are inclined to do a tasting menu, be clear on whether you want to include wine or not. The servers will assume you want wine if you do not speak up.

Recommendations

• A mixed seafood soup with broth, artichokes, striped bass, shrimp, sun-dried tomatoes, potato, and lemon. This was one of the best soups I’ve ever had. Very simple taste and spirit warming.
• Steamed egg custard, with black truffles. This was the biggest surprise dish of the night. Perfect balances of earthy truffles, salty egg and kuzo.
• Duck roulade. This is a must try for duck meat lovers.
• 3 meat (bison, elk, and lamb) ravioli was flavourful and hearty. The pasta was perfectly al-dente and the meats’ tastes came together well, without and one meat overpowering the other and no gamey taste and all.
• The duck ravioli with scrambled eggs and truffles was my favourite dish. I could eat a entire meal of this. I hope this one gets on the main menu – highly recommended! I’ll be backor the duck and cooking classes.

Mako Shark